Hæklevejledning på Sprutter

Herunder kan du finde hæklevejledninger til sprutter på engelsk og tysk.

Du kan finde strikke og hæklevejledning på dansk, svensk, fransk ,hollandsk og italiensk på de efterfølgende links.

Deutsche Häkelanleitung

 

Material:

Häkelnadel 3 oder 3,5 mm

Baumwollgarn (100 % reine Baumwolle)

Füllung aus synthetischen Materialien (bei 60° Grad waschbar)

ein Stück Nylonstrumpf

 Sticknadel

 

Verständlicherweise findet es niemand schön, wenn er viel Liebe,

Zeit und Energie in einen kleinen Tintenfisch investiert hat und

dieser dann nicht den Sicherheitsvorgaben entspricht.

Bitte lies daher, bevor du dich ans Werk machst, die Ausführungen

zu den Sicherheitsvorgaben aufmerksam durch und beachte diese.

Die Kleinen Tintenfische dürfen nur unter unmittelbarer Aufsicht

durch Erwachsene von Kindern benutzt werden.

 

Körper:

1. Rd.: 6 feste Maschen in einem Fadenring/magischen Ring

2. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede Masche (12)

3. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede 2. Masche,

1 feste Masche in alle anderen Maschen (18)

4. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede 3. Masche,

1 feste Masche in alle anderen Maschen (24)

5. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede 4. Masche,

1 feste Masche in alle anderen Maschen (30)

6. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede 5. Masche,

1 feste Masche in alle anderen Maschen (36)

7. - 14. Rd.: 1 feste Masche in jede Masche

(36 Maschen in jeder Runde)

15. Rd.: * je 1 feste Masche in die ersten 4 Maschen,

2 Maschen zusammenhäkeln oder

1 Masche überschlagen, 1 feste Masche in die 6. Masche

ab * 5 mal wiederholen (30)

16. - 17. Rd.: 1 feste Maschen in jede Masche (30)

18. Rd.: * je 1 feste Masche in die ersten 3 Maschen,

2 Maschen zusammenhäkeln oder

1 Masche überschlagen, 1 feste Masche in die 5. Masche

ab * 5 mal wiederholen (24)

19. - 20. Rd.: 1 feste Maschen in jede Masche (24)

21. Rd.: * je 1 feste Masche in die ersten 2 Maschen,

2 Maschen zusammenhäkeln oder

1 Masche überschlagen, 1 feste Masche in die 4. Masche

ab * 5 mal wiederholen (18)

22. Rd.: 1 feste Maschen in jede Masche (18)

23. Rd.: * je 1 feste Masche in die ersten 7 Maschen,

2 Maschen zusammenhäkeln oder

1 Masche überschlagen, 1 feste Masche in die 9. Masche

ab * 1 mal wiederholen (16)

24. Rd: 1 feste Maschen in jede Masche (16)

25. Rd.: ab hier beginnt man mit den Armen:

* 1 feste Masche,

ca. 40 – 50 Luftmaschen, wenden,

2 feste Maschen in jede Luftmasche,

1 feste Masche

ab * 7 mal wiederholen ergibt 8 Arme,

mit einer Kettmasche enden, Garn abschneiden und vernähen.

Bei den Armen heißt es ausprobieren wie viele Maschen ihr benötigt,

damit die Arme im langgezogenen Zustand nicht länger als 20 cm sind.

Dies ist abhängig von dem Garn mit dem ihr arbeitet und der

Festigkeit eurer Maschen.

Die Anzahl der Arme ist nicht festgelegt, fünf sollten es aber

mindestens sein.

Mehr feste Maschen zwischen die Arme = weniger Arme;

weniger feste Maschen zwischen den Arme = mehr Arme.

Zwischen den Armen entstehen manchmal kleine Löcher.

Um dies zu vermeiden könnt ihr zwei feste Maschen in die festen

Maschen machen oder die Löcher am Ende zunähen.

Unterseite:

1. Rd.: 5 feste Maschen in einem Fadenring/magischen Ring

2. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede Masche (10)

3. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede 2. Masche,

1 feste Masche in alle anderen Maschen (15)

mit einer Kettmasche enden, Garn abschneiden.

Augen:

1. Rd.: 4 feste Maschen in einem Fadenring/magischen Ring

2. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede Masche (8)

3. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede 2. Masche,

1 feste Masche in alle anderen Maschen (12)

mit einer Kettmasche enden, Garn abschneiden und vernähen.

Pupillen aufsticken.

Fertigstellung:

Den Körper mit Füllwatte (in einem verknoteten Nylonstrumpf!) ausstopfen und die

Unterseite fest annähen. Die Augen aufnähen (oder mit Maschenstisch aufsticken).

Mund aufsticken und ggf. Verzierungen anbringen.

Ideen für Verzierungen

Blume / Stern:

1. Rd.: 6 Luftmaschen,

1 Kettmasche in die 1. Masche um zu einem Ring zu schließen

2. Rd.: 1 Luftmasche, 10 feste Maschen in den Ring,

1 Kettmasche in die 1. feste Masche um die Runde zu beenden

3. Rd.: 1 Luftmasche, 1 feste Masche,

* 3 Luftmaschen, 1 Masche überspringen,

1 feste Masche in die nächste Masche,

ab * 4 mal wiederholen, letzte Wiederholung mit einer Kettmasche

anstatt einer festen Masche beenden.

Jetzt sollte man 5 Schleifen haben.

4. Rd.: in jede Schleife:

1 Luftmasche, 1 feste Masche, 1 halbes Stäbchen,

1 Stäbchen, 1 halbes Stäbchen, 1 feste Masche.

In der letzten Schleife endet man anstatt mit einer festen Masche

mit einer Kettmasche. Garn abschneiden und vernähen.

Hut:

1. Rd.: 5 feste Maschen in einem Fadenring/magischen Ring

2. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede Masche (10)

3. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede 2. Masche,

1 feste Masche in alle anderen Maschen (15)

4. - 6. Rd.: 1 feste Masche in jede Masche (15)

7. Rd.: 2 feste Maschen in jede Masche (30),

mit einer Kettmasche enden, Garn abschneiden und vernähen.

Fülle den Hut mit etwas Füllwatte (in einem Nylonstrumpf!) auf und nähe in fest auf den kleinen Tintenfisch auf. Besticke den Hut in der 6. Runde mit einem doppelt liegenden Garnfaden in kontrastierender Farbe.

                                                                 

Crocheted Octo – British version

 

MATERIALS:

- Crochet hook size 3 or 3,5 millimeter

- Cotton yarn (100 percent cotton only), cotton 8/4 or 8/8 ( the reason for mentioning more

options is that tightness is individual and to emphasize that it is perfectly fine to use

leftover yarn.

- Stuffing: Fiber filling – has to be washable at 60 degrees Celsius

- Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

Dc – double crochet

Htc – half treble crochet

Tc – treble crochet

St – stitch

Sts - stitches

Ch – chain

Tg – together

Sl st – slip stitch

Yoh – yarn over hook

Body: working in continuous rounds:

1st round: 6 dc in a magic loop

2nd round: 2 dc in each st (12 sts in total)

3rd round: 2 dc in every other st, 1 dc in the other sts (18 sts in total)

4th round: 2 dc in every 3rd st, 1 dc in all other sts (24 sts)

5th round: 2 dc in every 4th st, 1 dc in all other sts (30 sts)

6th round: 2 dc in every 5th st, 1 dc in all other stitches (36 sts)

7th – 14th round: 1 dc in each st (36 sts each round)

15th round: *1 dc in the first 4 st, dc tg 5th and 6th st* repeat 5 times (30 sts remaining)

16th – 17th round: 1 dc in each st (30 sts)

18th round: *1 dc in each of 3 sts, dc tg 4th and 5th st* repeat 5 times (24 sts remaining)

19th-20th round: 1 dc in each st (24 sts)

21st round: *1 dc in first 2 sts, dc tg 3rd and 4th st* repeat 5 times (18 sts remaining)

22nd round: 1 dc in each st (18 sts)

23rd round: *1 dc in first 7 sts, dc tg 8th and 9th st * repeat once (16 sts remaining)

24th round: 1 dc in each st (16 sts)

25th round: this is where the tentacles starts: *1 dc, chain 50, turn, 2 or 3 dc in each chain (49 chains), 1 dc in next st of the body* repeat 7 times, making 8 tentacles. End with a sl st, cut yarn and sew in the end.

The tentacles must not be longer than 22 centimeters when drawn out the longest they can, as they may be a choking hazard if longer.

Bottom:

1st round: 5 dc in a magic ring

2nd round: 2 dc in each stitch (10 stitches)

3rd round: 2 dc in every other stitch, 1 dc in the other stitches (15 stitches) End with a sl st, cut yarn and sew in the end.

Eyes:

Crochet in single white yarn, make 2 (or embroider the eyes as you like)

1st round: 4 dc in a magic loop

2nd round: 2 dc in each st (8 sts)

3rd round: 2 dc in every other st, 1 dc in the other (12 sts)

End with a sl st, cut yarn and sew in ends.

Embroider pupils with black thread.

Assembling the octo

Stuff the body and sew the bottom on. Sew on the eyes (or embroider them on) and embroider a mouth using your preferred stitches.

Accessory inspiration

Purple flower/star:

1st round: ch 6, sl st in first st to make a ring

2nd round: ch 1, 10 dc in the ring, sl st in first dc to end round,

3rd round: ch 1, 1 dc in same st, *ch 3, miss 1 st, 1 dc in next st* repeat 4 times (last repeat ends with a sl st instead of a dc) Now there should be 5 loops

4th round: into the first loop: ch 1, 1dc, 1 htc, 1 tc, 1 htc, 1 dc. Repeat into the other 4 loops, in the last loop end with sl st instead of dc. Cut yarn and sew in ends

Green flower with 5 petals

1st round: ch 6, sl st into first st to form a ring

2nd round: ch 1, 10 dc into the ring, sl st in first dc to end round

3rd round: ch 1, 1 dc in same st, *ch 3, miss 1 st, 1 dc in next st* repeat 4 times (5 loops)

4th round: *ch 3, (yoh, hook through loop, yoh, draw up till same height as the ch 3, do this 4 more times (10 loops on hook), yoh, pull through all loops on the hook), ch 3, 1 dc in next st* repeat for each of the 4 remaining loops, end last repeat with sl st instead of dc, fasten of, cut yarn and sew in ends.

Hat:

1st round: 5 dc into a magic ring

2nd round: 2 dc in each st (10 sts)

3rd round: 2 dc in every other st, 1 dc in the rest (15 st)

4th-6th round: 1 dc in each st (15 sts)

7th round: 2 dc in each st (30 sts) sl st in first dc, fasten of, cut yarn and sew in ends

Stuff the hat a little bit and sew it onto the octo. Embroider the hat in 6th round with a double string yarn in contrasting color and make a bow. Sew the bow securely to the hat to insure it does not loosen.

 

 

Crocheted Octo – US version

 

MATERIALS:

- Crochet hook size 3 or 3,5 millimeter

- Cotton yarn (100 percent cotton only), cotton 8/4 or 8/8 ( the reason for mentioning more

options is that tightness is individual and to emphasize that it is perfectly fine to use

leftover yarn. The octos does not have to be all alike, though preferably not larger than the

one on the picture below and smaller would be great!  )

- Stuffing: Fiber filling – has to be washable at 60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit)

- Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

Sc – single crochet

St – stitch

Sts - stitches

Ch – chain

Tg – together

Sl st – slip stitch

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Body: working in continuous rounds:

1st round: 6 sc in a magic loop

2nd round: 2 sc in each st (12 sts in total)

3rd round: 2 sc in every other st, 1 sc in the other sts (18 sts in total)

4th round: 2 sc in every 3rd st, 1 sc in all other sts (24 sts)

5th round: 2 sc in every 4th st, 1 sc in all other sts (30 sts)

6th round: 2 sc in every 5th st, 1 sc in all other stitches (36 sts)

7th – 14th round: 1 sc in each st (36 sts each round)

15th round: *1 sc in the first 4 st, sc tg 5th and 6th st* repeat 5 times (30 sts remaining)

16th – 17th round: 1 sc in each st (30 sts)

18th round: *1 sc in each of 3 sts, sc tg 4th and 5th st* repeat 5 times (24 sts remaining)

19th-20th round: 1 sc in each st (24 sts)

21st round: *1 sc in first 2 sts, sc tg 3rd and 4th st* repeat 5 times (18 sts remaining)

22nd round: 1 sc in each st (18 sts)

23rd round: *1 sc in first 7 sts, sc tg 8th and 9th st * repeat once (16 sts remaining)

24th round: 1 sc in each st (16 sts)

25th round: this is where the tentacles starts: *1 sc, chain 50, turn, 2 or 3 sc in each chain (49 chains), 1 sc in next st of the body* repeat 7 times, making 8 tentacles. End with a sl st, cut yarn and sew in the end.

The tentacles must not be longer than 22 centimeters when drawn out the longest they can, as they may be a choking hazard if longer.

Bottom:

1st round: 5 sc in a magic ring

2nd round: 2 sc in each stitch (10 stitches)

3rd round: 2 sc in every other stitch, 1 sc in the other stitches (15 stitches) End with a sl st, cut yarn and sew in the ends.

Eyes:

Crochet in single white yarn, make 2 (or embroider the eyes as you like)

1st round: 4 sc in a magic loop

2nd round: 2 sc in each st (8 sts)

3rd round: 2 sc in every other st, 1 sc in the other (12 sts)

End with a sl st, cut yarn and sew in ends.

Embroider pupils with black thread

Assembling the octo

Stuff the body and sew the bottom on. Sew on the eyes (or embroider them on) and embroider a mouth using your preferred stitches.

Accessory inspiration

Purple flower/star:

1st round: ch 6, sl st in first st to make a ring

2nd round: ch 1, 10 sc in the ring, sl st in first sc to end round,

3rd round: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, *ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st* repeat 4 times (last repeat ends with a sl st instead of a sc) Now there should be 5 loops

4th round: into the first loop: ch 1, 1sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Repeat into the other 4 loops, in the last loop end with sl st instead of sc. Cut yarn and sew in ends

Green flower with 5 petals

1st round: ch 6, sl st into first st to form a ring

2nd round: ch 1, 10 sc into the ring, sl st in first sc to end round

3rd round: ch 1, 1sc in same st, *ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st* repeat 4 times (5 loops)

4th round: *ch 3, (yarn over, hook through loop, yarn over, draw up to the same height as the ch 3, do this 4 more times (10 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all loops on the hook), ch 3, 1 sc in next st* repeat for each of the 4 remaining loops, end last repeat with sl st instead of sc, fasten of, cut yarn and sew in ends.

Hat:

1st round: 5 sc into a magic ring

2nd round: 2 sc in each st (10 sts)

3rd round: 2 sc in every other st, 1 sc in the rest (15 st)

4th-6th round: 1 sc in each st (15 sts)

7th round: 2 sc in each st (30 sts) sl st in first sc, fasten of, cut yarn and sew in ends

Stuff the hat a little bit and sew it onto the octo. Embroider the hat in 6th round with a double string yarn in contrasting color and make a bow. Sew the bow securely to the hat to insure it does not loosen.

 

 

 

 
 
 

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